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How to Saddle a Horse
How much thought do you put into saddling up for a ride? This preparation time, when done right, can be used to observe for anomalies, put your horse’s comfort first and therefore set you up for the best ride possible.
1. Clean Out Hooves
Make a habit of cleaning out your horse’s hooves every ride. It’s the ideal time to ensure there are no foreign objects, rocks or sticks lodged in your horse’s hooves or any other health issues like cracks, thrush or loose shoes.
2. Groom
Ever had hay down your shirt? It’s not comfortable! And dirt, mud or dried sweat under a girth, saddle blanket or bridle is no different. When grooming, pay close attention to areas where tack sits and run your hand over the area after to ensure it’s clean and lying flat. If your horse is a grot and rugging is feasible, wash your horse and put clean rugs on to maintain cleanliness.
3. Not Against the Grain
When saddling, place the saddle blanket and saddle a little further forward than its normal position and then slide back into place so that the coat lays flat. The saddle should sit just behind the shoulder.
4. Wither Clearance
When you place your saddle on your horse, lift the saddle blanket into the gullet of the saddle for wither clearance. If your saddle blanket sits flat on top of the wither under the saddle, it could rub and be uncomfortable for
your horse.
5. Saddle Fit
Whilst we always advise you to have your saddle fitted by a professional, there are a few red flags that mean you need urgent assistance. The saddle should always clear the horse’s spine all the way through the channel, even with a rider on board. If your saddle is touching anywhere along the spine, do not ride, get the help of a saddle fitter. Likewise, if your saddle is creating any types of rubs, sores or grey-haired patches you need to call for help.
6. Ill Fitting Tack
It’s not just the case for saddles, rub marks on your horse’s coat where any tack sits, are a sign that it doesn’t fit properly. That goes for bridles, breastplates, boots, rugs — you name it, none of it should cause coat hairs to be rubbed out. Reassess the fit of the item in question (for example, resize straps) and if issues still persist seek a different size or style.
7. Girthing
When the saddle is on board, fasten the girth securely but not tightly. It should be tight enough that it shouldn’t move from its position, but not riding-level tight. Once your bridle is on, hand walk the horse, then stop and tighten the girth. Another check should be done once you’re on board, or after a short walk, as the weight of the rider can settle the saddle into position.
8. Noseband Tightness
Nosebands serve a purpose but that purpose should never be discomfort. When fastening a cavesson noseband (standard on most bridles) make sure you can get two fingers in the top at the bridge of the nose. For a flash noseband, you need to be able to put two fingers in between the jaw and the band. In this modern day, we also have a range of alternate nosebands — if you’re not sure how tight to fasten their various buckles, check the fit guide from the manufacturer or seek a knowledgeable person’s assistance.
9. Boots
If you’re using any type of tendon or exercise boots, they should be one of the last items you put on and one of the first items you take off. This minimises the time the legs will hold extra heat from the boots — a particularly important consideration during the summer months.
10. More Gear Does Mean Better
If you’re only dipping your toes into the competition side of things, you may see riders all geared up and think they look professional. Don’t get sucked into thinking that extra tack or gadgets will improve your horse or your riding. Only add gear when it serves a function or improves your horse’s comfort. Simple is sometimes best.
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