Transitioning Off-the-Track Thoroughbreds: Effective Strategies for Bringing Them Back Into Work

When bringing a Thoroughbred back into work after a spell, it is important to have some strategies in place to set you and your horse up for success. These first rides are a tiny part of a much bigger plan, so lay the best foundation that you can. Patience and consistency are paramount, and be prepared that some areas may take longer than you anticipated.

Each time you work with your horse, the aim is to have a positive experience and always be putting “good experiences” into the confidence bank. Give some thought to the life your horse has known as a racehorse before coming to you. On the upside, most Thoroughbreds are well handled, are used to being on transport and have been under saddle for some time.

The other side is that they may have developed certain habits, both on the ground and under saddle from being a racehorse, that may not be as favourable in their new career. Take into consideration that your horse has been trained to be a racehorse, and patterns and behaviours have been reinforced for years. A horse with 8 – 12 weeks re training has a good start however they are still far from established. Compare the amount of training they have had as a racehorse compared to the time they have been off the track, it may have raced for 4 years (200 weeks) and had 8 weeks re training. So it is now your role to continue with their education and training.

Your horse may struggle with rushing, balance, straightness, stiffness, falling in/out and may find one canter lead more difficult than the other. This is fairly common & all things that can be worked on.

When we bring a horse in from a spell, we check them all over for general health. Run your hands down their legs, check feet, and run your hands over their back, where the saddle will go; check for any lumps and bumps, scabs or anything that may cause any pain or discomfort. We have horses trimmed or shod, teeth done and bodywork if we think they need it.

There are a lot of variables with each horse and its background, and some horses hold fitness better than others. How long since your horse was ridden? Did they spell with an injury? How long was their racing career? What do you know about how they were while racing? What were they like to handle & ride? Collect all the information about your horse’s history that you can to assist with your training plans.

Time spent with your horse will help you get to know them more. We often hand-walk new horses around the arena we will ride in. We present them with different questions, stepping over poles, going past a spooky log, etc, as this all provides insight as to what we can expect under saddle.

We always lunge before we ride and begin in the round yard. If you don’t have access to a round yard, use a corner of your arena or paddock and shut all gates.

Be aware not all horses will have been lunged before on a lunge rope, so they may be confused and unsure of what you are asking. With all of your training and work, give very simple and clear questions. Be aware of where your body is within the horse’s flight zone. To start with, you just want your horse to go forward and in a circle. Once this is established, you can ask for more. A lot of good work can be done on the lunge that will greatly help when you are on their back.

Lunge with the saddle you will ride in and have them stretch and feel the saddle on their back. They may have changed shape or lost some muscle since they were last ridden, and also, your saddle will be different to a trackpad, so give your horse some time to feel this.

Once you feel happy with your horse on the ground, you are ready to get on, again, get organised and set yourself up for a win. When mounting, have someone handy on the ground or on a lead pony. Many Thoroughbreds may not have been taught to stand when mounted. We do not make a big deal about this initially. Choose your battles. Choose a spot in your yard/arena where your horse feels most settled. We like near the fence or a corner. Get on quietly and allow your horse to move forward. Remember how they may have been ridden, stay light on their back to start. Allow a bit of space and do big circles while you get to know your horse and he finds his balance. Ask for your turns early and be very clear with your questions.

When first cantering allow a bit of space. Go two point for the first bit until you get a feel of your horses canter and they settle into a rhythm. They are a racehorse and ideally will have a good ground covering stride.

The horse may feel a bit like us after a three-month holiday and they have just hit the gym… so take it slow. Don’t make your sessions too long or intensive, as your horse will become muscle sore, and other issues may arise.

In the first few rides, we generally walk, trot and canter each way, with a few big walk breaks in between. Each ride may be only 20 minutes to start with.

As far as gear goes, we have a few “go-to” bits. We like the lock-up style that emulate the ring bit they know, we use a bomber lock-up or winning tongue plate, we also love a basic D and FM that provide more cheek or a straight rubber bit. We find one of these five is generally a goer. Make sure your gear all fits; you don’t want the bit too low in their mouth or they will get their tongue over it.

Most horses will not have had a low or firm noseband, so we use a loose cavesson or no noseband.

We always ride with a neck strap and often use a racing breastplate.

Remember, many Thoroughbreds have been ridden in a trackpad with their riders often in two-point position, so we use jump saddles with a good half pad or riser, depending on how the saddle fits.

We love the Bates Advantas as they fit a lot of our Thoroughbreds, are close contact and are super to ride in.

Make sure your stirrup length is where you want it. You don’t want to have to fiddle around once you are on.

Remember, horses like company, and as a racehorse, they have generally lived, been worked, transported and raced with other horses with them all of the time. If possible, bring them up to be worked with other horses nearby that they can see. When you hack out for the first time, go out with a friend until you get to know your horse.

Keep your questions to the horse simple and clear. Thoroughbreds are extremely clever and trainable and can be super responsive, so be careful not to overload them with too many things too quickly. Remember, all horses are very different here; however, some horses may have often travelled crooked, or with their head up, or with their head on their chest. They may have often been tense in the body; they may have pulled. They have been working like this for a period of time, and this is what they know, so don’t get frustrated if they don’t go around dressage ready in the first weeks. Forward and straightness are a great start. Be generous with your praise; tell your horse how good he is when he tries to do what you are asking. Most Thoroughbreds try so hard to please, and they thrive on praise.

Thoroughbreds can be incredibly rewarding to work with. Appreciate the wins, big and small, and don’t be hard on yourself or your horse if you have setbacks. Surround yourself with the best support possible, don’t be afraid to reach out
and ask for help if you get stuck with something.

Article: Louise Abey, 2023 Racing Victoria Acknowledged Retrainer of the Year

You might also like:
Starting Strong: The Initial Phase of Off-The-Track Thoroughbred Transition
Training Strategies for Off-the-Track Thoroughbreds: Preparing for Your First Competition

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